FTGFOP1: behind these letters lies the highest grade of whole-leaf black tea, Finest Tippy Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe, first choice, which signals a fine harvest and a high proportion of golden tips. The Roi du Yunnan that Mariage Frères offers rightly bears it: the house speaks of a tea extremely rich in golden tips, the result of a very careful harvest.

Yunnan, in south-western China, is the cradle of the tea plant; its black teas are recognised by their golden tips and their roundness. This one is a plain black tea, with no addition whatsoever; the ingredient list appears on the packaging and on this page.

It has a great deal of body, and yet its taste is smooth, fine and floral. The liquor is amber, round, with a malty sweetness and a peppery hint that suggests gingerbread. The great fragrance the house speaks of lies in this encounter between the flesh of the tea and the delicacy of the bud. The finish is long, without harsh tannin.

Mariage Frères describes it as a marvellous afternoon tea, and we happily serve it that way, plain, with a lightly sweetened pastry or a honey biscuit. It also suits the morning for those who like a round black tea without bitterness. Milk is unnecessary; it would cover the bud.

Allow 2.5 g per 200 ml of water at 95 °C and 5 minutes of infusion. Roi du Yunnan FTGFOP1 is sold loose: we weigh and pack it to order in our Bordeaux and Nice shops, from the 5 g sample to the kilo, in a pouch designed to preserve its flavour. Store it in an airtight container, away from light and strong odours.